Cune Rioja Reserva 2004 - Waitrose

Predispossessed of an obviously dodgy name for those entertaining the politically correct - in the glass, this wine has a striking intense colour. This is almost reminiscent of dye. Old school vino, with a beautifully refined, perfumed and slightly creamy, if very subtle and somewhat high-toned nose. There is also some seriously bracing tannin and acidity on the palate, along with a hint of creaminess. Seems like there is significant substance and weight hiding behind though.

Aromatically and structurally, today this reminds me more of Bordeaux than Rioja. So this doesn't quite scream Rioja like, say, a cigar-boxy Faustino or Montecillo might.

Obviously high quality, but I wonder if this one is shut down, and I also wonder where it will be in a few years time if it all comes together...

If you want full on in yer face hedonistic pleasure right now, then probably one to avoid. But as it is, a very classy 7.5/10 if you can handle the battery-acid tannin and acidity.

Now - on my soapbox - this is why marks are so silly... The Cune is obviously classy, yet it doesn't quite work for me right now. So other wines here may score higher marks, but often it's like comparing a perfect 'Big King Meal' (your way) to a filet steak served in a fine restaurant but which was cooked slightly too rare. The Big King gets 18/20 because it gives you what you want - it is orgasmic in a brilliantly cheap and ultimately shit way. The filet steak gets 17/20, because whilst it is of the highest quality and it comes prepared by an expert chef, it also comes with the wrong sauce. It is like comparing Catherine Deneuve to Pandora Peaks. But I like them both.

I conclude:

If you just want to drink it tonight and you want a round soft forgiving wine, forget it.

If this calms down , integrates and the fruit comes through then it could be super smashing. The price is right...

Edit: after a couple of hours open, this really improves - a great sign. If you want to drink it now, open it several hours in advance. An enigma.

Cune Rioja Reserva 2004 - 7.5-8.5/10. £8.99 Waitrose